why do my new windows have condensation on the inside
A common question we hear fromPhomeowners both thosePwho have recentlyPhad windows replaced and thosePconsidering P is Why do I have condensation on the inside of my windows? PIn fact, manyPhomeowners considerPreplacing their windows in an effort to cure this problem. To answer the question, let s determine what causes window condensation. Condensation is visible evidence of moisture in the air. It may appear as water, frost, or ice on the surface of windows and doors. This occurs more frequently during the winter months because of the extreme differences between the inside and outside air temperatures. The warmer the air, the more water the air can hold, which means that the air in the center of any given room will hold more water than the air adjacent to the window or door walls, since this area is always cooler. When the warm, moisture laden air moves toward the cooler window or door wall, it becomes cooler and cannot hold the moisture it held when it was warmer and is dropped and appears as water on the glass and frames of windows and doors. Windows do not cause condensation, they just happen to be the place where moisture is most visible. Condensation is a sign of excess moisture in the home. This can be caused by factors that may be temporary conditions such as:
New Construction or Remodeling: Building materials contain a great deal of moisture. As soon as the heat is turned on, this moisture will flow out into the air and settle on door and window glass. This will usually disappear following the first heating season. Humid Summers: During humid summers, houses absorb moisture. This will be apparent during the first few weeks of heating and then should dry out. Temperature Change: Sharp, quick, and sudden drops in temperature especially during the heating season will create temporary condensation problems.
Poor Ventilation: Insufficient attic ventilation and/or soffit ventilation is trap moisture in the home. Having sufficient soffit vents to allow air flow through the attic ventilation will allow moisture and humidity to escape. Excessive Humidity: Excessive humidity may be the result of poor ventilation but can also be a result of an imbalanced heating and air system or a need to add additional ventilation such as bathroom or kitchen exhaust vents. Controlled ventilation and elimination of excessive indoor moisture can keep humidity within bounds. Here are some suggestions to help reduce indoor moisture: Turn off or set back furnace humidifiers until sweating (condensation) stops. Remove pots of water on radiators or kerosene heaters. Use exhaust fans or open windows slightly in kitchen, bathroom and laundry room during periods of high moisture production such as cooking, taking showers, washing and drying clothes. Clothes driers must be vented outside. Do not hang clothes to dry indoors. Keep the basement as dry as possible by waterproofing floors and walls. Make sure attic vents are unobstructed. Place all house plants in one sunny room where the door can be kept shut and avoid over watering. Opening windows slightly for a brief period of time will allow humid air to escape and drier air to enter. Use a dehumidifier, properly sized, to reduce the humidity in the house. Excessive indoor humidity and moisture are not the result of your windows, new or old. You should viewPthe amount and severity of window condensation as a cluePthat moisture damage may be taking place inside the walls or ceiling cavities of your home. This can lead to rotting wood, deteriorating insulation, and blistering exterior paint. For all your residential window needs, you can relyPon our here at EXOVATIONS. Open the bathroom window or use the extractor fan when showering.
Keep the bathroom door closed at all times, to prevent water vapour from showers circulating around the flat. Use a cooker hood (venting directly to the outside) when cooking every litre of gas burned produces five litres of water vapour. Finally, every home would benefit from use of a dehumidifier. Use it on the low, economy setting all the time, but turn it up when a higher moisture load is introduced into the house such as showering, cooking, or bringing damp washing into living areas. Ebac is a popular British-made brand with a good record, and they are offering a 20 per cent discount to Telegraph readers. Call 0845 634 1392 and quote the promotion code ASKJEFF. Incidentally, following my answer about external condensation on window glass, reader David Broome has suggested the use of a water-repellent coating such as Rain-X rain repellent, which is sold in motoring stores for use on car windows. I have no experience of this product myself, and would welcome readers experiences. Q. Further to your recent column on combi boilers, is it true that, at some time in the future, all replacement boilers will have to be combi boilers by law? Having taken in your views on the subject this is a rather alarming prospect. MS, by email A. No, this is not true. All new and replacement boilers have to be condensing models, which are slightly more efficient because they extract some waste heat from the flue gasses (although any efficiency gains are probably cancelled-out by the short life expectancy of these boilers). However, there is no need for a new condensing boiler to be installed as part of a pressurised combi system, and there are no plans for this to become a requirement in the future. Condensing boilers work just as efficiently in a traditional indirect-pressure system, with a hot-water cylinder and cold-water storage cistern.
For some reason, many readers confuse the two words, combi and condensing, and that confusion is exploited by unscrupulous heating engineers and firms in order to sell combi boiler systems, which are much easier for them to install, and therefore more profitable. Q. Further to your recent discussions and solutions concerning heating and hot water, I have a further question. Two of my friends have had Megaflo systems installed. What is this and how does it compare with the combi and the traditional heating systems? SA, London A. Megaflo is one brand name for an unvented mains-pressure hot water cylinder. It works in much the same way as a conventional hot-water cylinder, being heated by the boiler, or by an electric immersion heater. The difference is that there is no cold-water cistern to provide indirect pressure to it. Instead you are dependent on the mains pressure, and if this is poor it can lead to the same problems experienced by owners of combi boiler systems namely poor water flow to upper storeys, and interference with the flow when two or more outlets in the house are being used at the same time. Unvented systems are generally not advisable unless you have good mains pressure (at least 1. 5 bar) entering the property via a 22mm supply pipe. The cylinder also requires a yearly test and maintenance by a service engineer. If your house has an existing hot-water system fed by a cold-water cistern, then I cannot see any advantage in removing this and replacing it with an unvented pressurised system. If the main aim is to get a powerful shower, then an electric shower pump is a cheaper and easier option. Send your questions to Jeff at Property, The Daily Telegraph, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, or email askjeff@telegraph. co. uk. Also visit
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